Bedlam at the border would best describe the carry on we witnessed at Wagha, where 1000s of people turn up every sunset on both sides of the border to watch soldiers speed stomping as flags are lowered. There were such crowds that we could only see the soldiers' hats bobbing about, although some of our group were brave enough to push their way through to ringside views, but we enjoyed the experience on the fringes of the mayhem. The cacophony as the soldiers marched towards the border gates was incredible, more like a demented football crowd than spectators at a serious military display of prowess. It was a strange & evocative pantomime played out in an area that saw the most appalling communal violence, with 100s of 1000s of deaths, following the collapse of the British Raj & the partition that followed.
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