Yes, this is a makeshift toilet perched over the water, just yards from where the laundry is being done!
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Kerala - The Backwaters
On our 2nd day in Kerala, one of the most southerly states in India, we opted to on a trip through the Backwaters on a traditional houseboat. There's a vast network of natural waterways supplemented with man-made water courses, ranging from a boat's width to 100s of metres in breadth. We were punted along by 2 local boatmen armed with extremely long, bendy bamboo poles.
In seemingly utter tranquility, we drifted along in a dreamy haze for most of the day.
However, during our occasional sallies onto dry land, we discovered that there were hives of activity all along the way. We visited various cooperatives (Kerala has been a strongly communist in its leanings for many years) where coconuts were being processed in every possible way - to make charcoal, copra, oil, juice, alcohol, animal feed, jewellery, bowls, utensils, thatch, rope & string - as well as being harvested for its straightforward culinary use. We saw farming of other fruits & vegetables from bananas to rice, although rice is being grown less nowadays since damming of the rivers further north leads to higher concentrations of salt in the estuarine Backwaters. We also saw mussel shells being transformed into calcium carbonate for fertiliser & preservative, fishing of various kinds & boat building.
There was time for a leisurely & delicious lunch, we're pleased to report, served up on a banana leaf & the general soporific effects of the experience were enhanced, for Fiona anyway, by a taste of the potent coconut liquor. Howard didn't need anything to enhance his ability to doze!
In seemingly utter tranquility, we drifted along in a dreamy haze for most of the day.
However, during our occasional sallies onto dry land, we discovered that there were hives of activity all along the way. We visited various cooperatives (Kerala has been a strongly communist in its leanings for many years) where coconuts were being processed in every possible way - to make charcoal, copra, oil, juice, alcohol, animal feed, jewellery, bowls, utensils, thatch, rope & string - as well as being harvested for its straightforward culinary use. We saw farming of other fruits & vegetables from bananas to rice, although rice is being grown less nowadays since damming of the rivers further north leads to higher concentrations of salt in the estuarine Backwaters. We also saw mussel shells being transformed into calcium carbonate for fertiliser & preservative, fishing of various kinds & boat building.
There was time for a leisurely & delicious lunch, we're pleased to report, served up on a banana leaf & the general soporific effects of the experience were enhanced, for Fiona anyway, by a taste of the potent coconut liquor. Howard didn't need anything to enhance his ability to doze!
Panjim
Before leaving Goa, we managed to fit in one night in Panjim, the present-day capital of the state. We stayed in the Panjim Possada, a restored building from the time of the 17th C establishment of the city by the Portuguese. All the town houses in the old quarter of Fontainhas are lovely, built around a series of shady inner & outer courtyards, painted in bright colours, with cool balconies & decorated with beautiful carved woodwork. We also came across a spectacular church, glowing in the dusk.
It was a pleasant place to wander & linger over dinner - though this did prompt our waiter to remark that, "Madam is so slow at eating!" - Madam nearly choked at that point!
Sunday, May 27, 2007
Idyllic Goa - Palolem
Having finished our volunteer stint in Goa we were not too unhappy to take ourselves off 50 km south to the beach resort of Palolem. We had an idyllic few days there (at ridiculously cheap prices) staying at Bhakti Kutir in an "eco-chalet" with a 4 poster bed, an outdoor bathroom, an extensive stoep where we could relax in a choice of loungers, divan or hammock, surrounded by lush jungle! The beach itself was a classic, palm-fringed bay & since the holiday season was coming to an end with the approach of the monsoon rains, there was hardly anyone else there. The sea was much calmer than at Colva, where we had sometimes struggled in the crashing waves, so we enjoyed spending more time in the water. We also enjoyed walking along the sands & eating some wonderful food. The meals in Colva hadn't been up to much so we appreciated even more than usual being served delicious fare!
It was all just perfect.
Family Life Events
So far on our blog we have noted a marriage, a graduation & the impending birth of our 1st grandchild but these are not the only life changes that our children have been experiencing since we started on our travels.
There have been a few birthdays, of course, & since Harcus & Angus turned 20 on the 17th of may, we find that we are no longer the parents of teenagers. The twins have just finished their 2nd years of student life. Angus has been successful in gaining sponsorship through his 5 year degree from Rolls Royce & will be starting his 1st summer work placement in Derby very soon. Harcus is now President of Edinburgh University's Role Playing Society, as well as the Board Game Society (we're not sure how much studying he's doing!). Steven has completed his degree at Liverpool University - we're looking forward to his graduation in July. Laura has set off to Australia with friends for a year of work & play. Alexandra has got her 1st full time job as a programme co-ordinator with the charity Common Purpose. Valla has set off alone to travel in Central & South America for 6 months - so far she's been in Mexico & Guatemala - prior to starting a Masters degree in Social Policy in the Autumn. And Matthew? Well, he's doing fantastic work in his allotment - & he's the expectant father!
As always, we're proud of them all. They may be out of sight but they're never out of mind.
There have been a few birthdays, of course, & since Harcus & Angus turned 20 on the 17th of may, we find that we are no longer the parents of teenagers. The twins have just finished their 2nd years of student life. Angus has been successful in gaining sponsorship through his 5 year degree from Rolls Royce & will be starting his 1st summer work placement in Derby very soon. Harcus is now President of Edinburgh University's Role Playing Society, as well as the Board Game Society (we're not sure how much studying he's doing!). Steven has completed his degree at Liverpool University - we're looking forward to his graduation in July. Laura has set off to Australia with friends for a year of work & play. Alexandra has got her 1st full time job as a programme co-ordinator with the charity Common Purpose. Valla has set off alone to travel in Central & South America for 6 months - so far she's been in Mexico & Guatemala - prior to starting a Masters degree in Social Policy in the Autumn. And Matthew? Well, he's doing fantastic work in his allotment - & he's the expectant father!
As always, we're proud of them all. They may be out of sight but they're never out of mind.
Saturday, May 26, 2007
It wasn't all day trips ................Girls' Orphanage
For 2 afternoons a week, we volunteered to teach singing & computing at a girls' orphanage run by nuns in Margao.
Some of the "girls" were in their 60s! Once a girl has been accepted into the orphanage then she can stay as long as she wants. Some stay for life! The nuns were not much in evidence & it seems that the older girls are really responsible for bringing up the younger ones. We discovered, too, that very few of the girls were orphans - as far as we could gather, poverty & illegitimate births probably accounted for many of the girls arriving at the orphanage as babies.
Due to to the non-appearance of any of the young male volunteers, who were musically inclined, on the afternoons in question & due to a lack of organisation as far as the computing classes were concerned, in the end we taught singing together.
The girls already had an extensive repertoire & sang as a a choir of sorts in the chapel attached to the orphanage but they had never had any formal singing lessons & were keen to learn new songs. We taught them breathing & warm-up exercises. Several of the girls had beautiful voices but were not using them properly, with resultant croaks. We showed them how to use their voices without straining their vocal chords & taught them how to reach higher notes than they thought they could. They did find the breathing exercises & warm-up very amusing - the Singing Kettle's "I Like To Eat Apples & Bananas" was very popular & reduced them all to giggles every time.
We taught them round-singing versions of "By The Rivers of Babylon" & "Hevenu Shalom Aleichem", both of which they subsequently sang in church as well as in the concert. We also taught them "Sabbath Prayer" from "Fiddler On The Roof", "Crocodile Rock", & "Doh, A Deer". Considering we only gave 4 lessons, we felt all this was quite an achievement!
2 of the girls were particularly talented - Marita,who was so bright & bubbly with a superb alto voice, & Sheena, who had perfect pitch. It is unlikely that they will ever be able to fulfil their full musical potential due to their circumstances - which is a real shame.
Our time at the orphanage was an unqualified success, every minute of which we warmly enjoyed. It was lovely & a further learning experience for both of us - Fiona learned more about the art of singing & Howard learned more about the art of teaching.
Some of the "girls" were in their 60s! Once a girl has been accepted into the orphanage then she can stay as long as she wants. Some stay for life! The nuns were not much in evidence & it seems that the older girls are really responsible for bringing up the younger ones. We discovered, too, that very few of the girls were orphans - as far as we could gather, poverty & illegitimate births probably accounted for many of the girls arriving at the orphanage as babies.
Due to to the non-appearance of any of the young male volunteers, who were musically inclined, on the afternoons in question & due to a lack of organisation as far as the computing classes were concerned, in the end we taught singing together.
The girls already had an extensive repertoire & sang as a a choir of sorts in the chapel attached to the orphanage but they had never had any formal singing lessons & were keen to learn new songs. We taught them breathing & warm-up exercises. Several of the girls had beautiful voices but were not using them properly, with resultant croaks. We showed them how to use their voices without straining their vocal chords & taught them how to reach higher notes than they thought they could. They did find the breathing exercises & warm-up very amusing - the Singing Kettle's "I Like To Eat Apples & Bananas" was very popular & reduced them all to giggles every time.
We taught them round-singing versions of "By The Rivers of Babylon" & "Hevenu Shalom Aleichem", both of which they subsequently sang in church as well as in the concert. We also taught them "Sabbath Prayer" from "Fiddler On The Roof", "Crocodile Rock", & "Doh, A Deer". Considering we only gave 4 lessons, we felt all this was quite an achievement!
2 of the girls were particularly talented - Marita,who was so bright & bubbly with a superb alto voice, & Sheena, who had perfect pitch. It is unlikely that they will ever be able to fulfil their full musical potential due to their circumstances - which is a real shame.
Our time at the orphanage was an unqualified success, every minute of which we warmly enjoyed. It was lovely & a further learning experience for both of us - Fiona learned more about the art of singing & Howard learned more about the art of teaching.
Friday, May 25, 2007
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