The city of Cochin/Kochi spreads across an interconnected network of islands & peninsulas between the Arabian Sea & the Backwaters. IT’s made up of several districts : modern Ernakulam, Willingdon Island, old Mattancherry & Fort Cochin – the latter being where we stayed in the appropriately named “Delight Tourist Resort”. It was one of many “homestays” in the area – B & Bs really. The Delight was the adapted family home of an erstwhile stockbroker who ensured immaculate standards were maintained. It was here that we encountered our 1st spotless Indian toilet! The house faced onto “The Parade Ground”, one of several open , grassy areas of common ground in Fort Cochin where endless games of cricket & cricket practice (& occasional football) went on from dawn to beyond dusk. As in the rest of India, only males were out playing – females were never in evidence around any of the parks we came across, not even hanging about on the sidelines & certainly not participating.
The 1st church to be built by Europeans (Portuguese) in India, in the early 16th C, stood at the other end of The Parade Ground., Vasco da Gama was originally buried in this church of St Francis in 1524 – but is no longer there since his body was taken off to Portugal at a later date. Nearby was a 20th C cathedral, Santa Cruz, which was worth seeing for its colourful, in parts gaudy, interior, hand painted mainly by one of its priests. WE lingered for quite a while on our visit there, learning in minute detail what is considered to be a mortal sin & what is considered a venial sin ( “imperfections not so grave for the soul but for spiritual growth”) in the eyes of the Catholic Church. Lists outlining every misdeed imaginable were set out, in relation to the 10 Commandments, for the consideration of congregants preparing for a confession. Very interesting!
Other delights on offer In Fort Cochin were : walking along the sea shore, past the enormous Chinese fishing nets, thought to have been introduced to the area by traders from the court of Kublai Khan; eating in some wonderful restaurants – the incredibly expensive Malibar & the Brunton Boatyard, where Howard nearly choked at the prices charged for a bottle of water, & the more affordable Chariot Beach & Kashi Arts Café (our favourite place, revisited several times); ambling along the picturesque streets; watching a performance of Khathakali - a Keralan, highly stylised, form of theatre.
There was evidence everywhere of diverse cultural influences – British, Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, Jewish, Arab & Indian, which blends into a wonderful whole which we loved. It’s one of the few places in India that we could truthfully say we would love to visit again.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment