We decided that the easiest way to tour about, during our 1st 2 weeks in India, would be to hire a car with a driver. Driving ourselves wasn't really an option - you have to be born here to be able to negotiate the crazy traffic! The roads are mostly in terrible condition & even on the odd stretch of pot-hole free dual carriageway, people don't always stick to the correct side of the central barrier!! Then there are roaming elephants, camels, donkeys, goats & a multitude of cows to consider...... Really the whole transportation system, in the north of India at least, is not efficient or traveller-friendly & we didn't fancy long journeys on ramshackle trains & buses, with frequent changes, so we hired Anil to drive us around for 10 days.
The 200 kms to Agra took 7 hours! Was it worth it? Well, no & yes!
Agra itself was filthy & unappealing & our hotel less than salubrious. the restaurants weren't great either. There were however some wonderful places to visit. Akbar's Mausoleum, with it's "Gateway of Magnificence" & lovely parklands, complete with black buck & langur monkeys, was a beautiful retreat. The palace complex at Fatephur Sikri & the adjoing mosque, the Jami Masjid, were both amazing. Fatephur Sikri was built on an incredibly grand scale, with a huge harem area (featuring 3 palaces itself), a 5 storeyed palace called the Panch Mahal & a "Hall of Private Audience" with an incredible throne pillar. The whole complex was built over a period of 16 years to be the Moghul Emperor's new capital in the late 1600s - & then abandoned after only another 15 years.
We also visiited the tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah, 1 of several buildings we were told were known as "THE Baby Taj". There is another fort in Agra, too, which we enjoyed as well.
Finally we went to visit the main reason for anyone going to Agra - the Taj Mahal. It was Fiona's 52nd birthday & a beautiful sunny day so we saw it in all its magnificence shining white against the background of a blue, blue sky. As it happens, people say you should see it in all different possible lights to appreciate its true magnificence - & 2 weeks later we found ourselves visting it again for the 2nd time - totally unplanned, but what can you do! The 2nd visit was in misty weather & the building looked more ivory coloured. There were less crowds, which was a bonus & Fiona actually preferred the atmosphere & found the Taj more beautiful the 2nd time around.
We did see some wonderful sunsets in Agra too - but realised that they were largely so spectacular because of the pollution!! The beauty & the filth!!
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