Friday, December 29, 2006
Day Trips - 3 - Cape Point & the Cape of Good Hope
YDP offers all its volunteers a day trip of their choice so we picked a Cape Peninsula tour. After weeks of travelling everywhere in the most clapped-out vehicles imaginable, it seemed luxurious to be in a van with comfortable seats, seat belts & air conditioning. The tour was good too!
Our 1st stop was the picturesque Hout Bay, where a boat took us out to Duikers Island to watch hundreds of Cape Fur Seals perform their acrobatics in the sea - any "seal trips" we've taken in the past consisted of looking at sleeping bodies on rocks with the occasional head bobbing about in the water, but these seals were incredibly boisterous. We definitely got our money's worth!
Then we drove on over the Chapman's Peak Road, which has only recently re-opened. It suffers from the wild weather prevalent on the Cape which frequently causes rockfalls. We were lucky that there was hardly a breath of wind. Usually we are constantly buffeted by the south-easterly wind, known as the Cape Doctor on its gentler days. It does help to keep us cool, but sometimes it's been a battle to walk upright in a straight line & our hairstyles have been wilder than usual.
Once we reached False Bay, on the Indian Ocean side of the Cape, we stopped at Boulders to make the acquaintance of the African penguins, otherwise known as Jackass penguins because of the braying call they make. There were hundreds of them! Some were splashing on the water's edge, paddling & swimming. Others stood over a single egg each, laid in shallow dips scraped out of the sand higher up on the open beach or under bushes & trees. It was obviously hot work - they all stood with their heads back, beaks agape, panting in the relentless sun. However, a shift system seemed to be in operation. The males & females take turns standing over the eggs & we saw a "changing of the guard" while we were there.
Our final destination for the day was the Cape of Good Hope National Park. We stopped briefly on the way to watch a troop of baboons meandering along the roadside. One young male was missing one of its front paws - cut off at the wrist by traditional medicine men. A frequent occurrence apparently - sad. When we got to the Park, we left the van to cycle for a few miles to Buffels Bay for a picnic lunch & a quick dip in the sea. Actually, only the Scots ventured into the water (there were 3 of us - John from Larkhall swelled the Scottish contingent for the day). A gentleman from Korea was very taken with Howard's body hair - he kept stroking Howard while exclaiming "It is lovely, so lovely"!! Can't wait till we get to Asia!!
Suitably refreshed, we then slogged up the path to the Cape Point lighthouse where we could look out over the ocean towards the Antartic & be cooled by a very stiff breeze. We had great views, too, of the Cape of Good Hope - & the line of parked cars along the roadside! We had always pictured it as a remote, wild, storm-tossed place. It came as a surprise that it turned out to be a tourist hotspot & that we were there on a perfect summer's day. Maybe we'll come back mid-winter? No. perhaps not!
It was a beautiful spot & we enjoyed the walk out to the tip, along the top of the cliffs. On the way we saw Ostriches, Dassies (Rock Hyrax, closest living relation of elephants) & the rare Cape Zebras, which are more subdued in their colouring than the more common zebras. We were lucky to see them but you'll just have to take our word for it since the photo didn't work out!
Christmas in Cape Town
The festive season turned out to be pleasantly low key in this part of the world. We have only seen 3 Christmas trees & they didn't appear until a day or two before the 25th. No crowds intent on bankrupting themselves in the shops, no Christmas muzak wherever you go, no tinsel - the monstrous commercialisation is thankfully absent.
Christmas Day itself, though, was a lovely family occasion which we shared with Beth Uriel. Our contribution was to help with the cooking & the mounds of washing up, as well as driving everyone to church (at 8.30 AM!). Before church, we all shared a special breakfast of mango juice, scrambled eggs, bacon(well, we didn't share that bit!), pancakes, bananas & caramel sauce. 364 days a year breakfast is just porridge. Dinner was a feast of stuffed turkey & vast heaps of meat cooked on the braai (barbecue) accompanied by various salads & followed by trayfuls of freshly baked chocolate brownies.
An amply padded Santa (the petite Seanah did the honours even though Howard has just the beard, if not the stomach any more, for the part!) handed out the presents. The guys had all chosen gifts for themselves to the value of 350 rands (26 pounds). Most chose shoes or trousers with the notable exception of Wandicile who is now the proud owner of a yoga exercise ball. In addition they were given a Pick'n'Pay voucher of 100 rands, toiletries & a cap decorated with the MeKasi logo by the Brodie team, taking the chance to demonstrate our artistic skills!? We gave a house present of a new DVD player. We were also given a present - 2 tickets for the cinema. Unexpected but a lovely surprise. We just have to agree on a film & find a way to get there & back.
In amongst all the hustle & bustle, Fiona managed to find time to speak to all of her family in Scotland which was lovely.
Back at our hosts' house there were celebrations too. Charles is the pastor of a church which has 60 members, mostly refugees from places such as Zimbabwe, Rwanda & the Congo. Normally they meet in a room in the city centre, but on Christmas Day everyone was invited out to Os for a service in the house at 9.30 AM followed by a day of food, drink & relaxation. The last stragglers were just leaving as we returned at 9pm. We were sorry to have missed the party & howard was particularly disappointed when he dicovered that there had been a singalong, mostly of Simon & Garfunkel numbers. Fiona did her best to compensate - the day ended with 2 part singing in near harmony! (Really she tried!!)
Christmas Day itself, though, was a lovely family occasion which we shared with Beth Uriel. Our contribution was to help with the cooking & the mounds of washing up, as well as driving everyone to church (at 8.30 AM!). Before church, we all shared a special breakfast of mango juice, scrambled eggs, bacon(well, we didn't share that bit!), pancakes, bananas & caramel sauce. 364 days a year breakfast is just porridge. Dinner was a feast of stuffed turkey & vast heaps of meat cooked on the braai (barbecue) accompanied by various salads & followed by trayfuls of freshly baked chocolate brownies.
An amply padded Santa (the petite Seanah did the honours even though Howard has just the beard, if not the stomach any more, for the part!) handed out the presents. The guys had all chosen gifts for themselves to the value of 350 rands (26 pounds). Most chose shoes or trousers with the notable exception of Wandicile who is now the proud owner of a yoga exercise ball. In addition they were given a Pick'n'Pay voucher of 100 rands, toiletries & a cap decorated with the MeKasi logo by the Brodie team, taking the chance to demonstrate our artistic skills!? We gave a house present of a new DVD player. We were also given a present - 2 tickets for the cinema. Unexpected but a lovely surprise. We just have to agree on a film & find a way to get there & back.
In amongst all the hustle & bustle, Fiona managed to find time to speak to all of her family in Scotland which was lovely.
Back at our hosts' house there were celebrations too. Charles is the pastor of a church which has 60 members, mostly refugees from places such as Zimbabwe, Rwanda & the Congo. Normally they meet in a room in the city centre, but on Christmas Day everyone was invited out to Os for a service in the house at 9.30 AM followed by a day of food, drink & relaxation. The last stragglers were just leaving as we returned at 9pm. We were sorry to have missed the party & howard was particularly disappointed when he dicovered that there had been a singalong, mostly of Simon & Garfunkel numbers. Fiona did her best to compensate - the day ended with 2 part singing in near harmony! (Really she tried!!)
Sunday, December 24, 2006
Lion's Head
Day Trips - 2 - Lion's Head, Signal Hill & Table Mountain
We planned to go up Table Mountain by cable car early on a Sunday afternoon - but we were thwarted! Although it was a hot, clear day all around Tafelberg, the cable cars weren't running due to strong winds & dense cloud cover sweeping over the table top. So we thought that we would walk up the nearby Lion's Head, expecting an "unstrenuous hike" as described in our "Rough Guide" - whoever wrote that had obviously only gone up halfway! We would describe it as a tough scramble, both up to & down from the very top. There was a reward for our efforts though, because the views were stunning on all sides. We looked out across: Signal Hill, the entire city, the harbour area & over Robben Island to the north; the Atlantic seaboard down to Cape Point to the south & west; Table Mountain to the east. In fact, we could see that the cable cars had started to run by the time we were ready to clamber back down. So, late in the afternoon, after a trip along Signal Hill for an ice-cream, we finally stepped into one of the revolving cabin that twirl you to the top of the famous landmark. To our delighted surprise , we found that we only had to pay half-price by going up late in the day! Having baked in the heat all day, it was a strange but not unwelcome sensation to find ourselves in a chilling fog. Sometimes the fog was so thick that we could hardly see a few feet in front of us, but then the wind would blow the clouds over to reveal the sea & the city dizzily far below. Moments later we were shrouded in fog again. It was eerie. The most amazing experience was to look down as the clouds tumbled over the cliffs under our feet like a huge frothing waterfall.
We were able to stay up on the table top long enough to watch the sun sink down into the Ocean (our 1st sunset view, since we are normally on the eastern side of the mountain) before the wind picked up speed again. A warning siren heralded a mass evacuation. We piled into the last cable car down as the city lit up beneath us - beautiful.
We were able to stay up on the table top long enough to watch the sun sink down into the Ocean (our 1st sunset view, since we are normally on the eastern side of the mountain) before the wind picked up speed again. A warning siren heralded a mass evacuation. We piled into the last cable car down as the city lit up beneath us - beautiful.
Saturday, December 23, 2006
Day Trips - 1- Coasting To The Wine Lands
We hired a little 1.3litre Toyota Tazz and drove out of Cape Town along the beautiful coastal road south east of the city, as far as Hermanus, on Walker Bay, at the start of the whale coast. The main season for whale watching is June through to the beginning of December, though we're told that a few of the Southern Right whales can still be spotted later in December- but not by us! We stopped for refreshments in Hermanus, looking over the ocean before turning inland to Caledon. (There are quite a few "Scottish" places in this area - MacGregor, Robertson, Ceres, Napier) Immediately we began to see vineyards & farmlands in the sweeping fertile valleys. We also experienced our 1st dirt road - without warning, the tarmac ended & we were driving in clouds of yellow dust.
Beyond Caledon, we drove through the Holland Hottentot Mountains via the Franschoek Pass to the town of Franschoek. The Pass bore a strong resemblance to a Scottish glen & carried us, it seemed, straight into Provence. It was very beautiful & very hot but we found a tranquil spot in the gardens of "La Fromagerie" where we lingered for an hour or two, gazing over vineyards to the mountains above while eating a delicious lunch. Our meal was followed by a stroll around the town before we drove on to Stellenbosch & Paarl, the other main settlements on the Wine Route, for a brief look round. Paarl is on the edge of the Drakenstein Mountains & has historical significance firstly as the historical birthplace of the Afrikaans language movement in the 19th C (in honour of this, there is a grandiose monument dominating the mountainside above the town) & secondly as the place where Nelson Mandela finally walked free from imprisonment in 1990.
Beyond Caledon, we drove through the Holland Hottentot Mountains via the Franschoek Pass to the town of Franschoek. The Pass bore a strong resemblance to a Scottish glen & carried us, it seemed, straight into Provence. It was very beautiful & very hot but we found a tranquil spot in the gardens of "La Fromagerie" where we lingered for an hour or two, gazing over vineyards to the mountains above while eating a delicious lunch. Our meal was followed by a stroll around the town before we drove on to Stellenbosch & Paarl, the other main settlements on the Wine Route, for a brief look round. Paarl is on the edge of the Drakenstein Mountains & has historical significance firstly as the historical birthplace of the Afrikaans language movement in the 19th C (in honour of this, there is a grandiose monument dominating the mountainside above the town) & secondly as the place where Nelson Mandela finally walked free from imprisonment in 1990.
Pick-ups
We make other trips on Tuesdays - there are 3 food pick-ups, when "wastage" is collected from 3 different supermarkets. Cratefuls of out-of-date fruit, veg & bakery are loaded into the bakkie to supplement the monthly shop. We also got to transport the cook, Rowayda, & her 7 trolleyfuls of rice, sugar, lentils, milk, oats, salt, flour, cleaning materials........all the staples. On Wednesday mornings, the food not needed by BU is taken out to Langa, one of the nearby townships, for distribution. The bakkie's arrival there is greeted by hordes of little children. Then on Sundays, there is a pick-up of bread, croissants & Danish pastries from a hotel near Greenpoint Market, which provides lunch for members of the "family" manning the MeKasi stall & supper at home later. There is also a soup run on Thursday evenings, where the homeless in Observatory & the city centre can get bread & hot soup (ladled into litre plastic "ginger" bottles with the tops cut off). The street children are not in evidence when we go out on the soup run - they usually hide up at night to try & keep safe, under bridges, on a ledge at Woolworth's, wherever they can.............
How tough is this?!
It's the 8th day of Channukah, nearly Christmas & we're having the best summer holiday - feels weird but wonderful! The trips to the beaches & swimming pools continue apace. We've been the chauffeurs & chaperones, usually along with Sam (from Dublin). The only downside has been the assault on our ears - the same CD played endlessly & ear-splittingly wherever we go........thump, thump, thump..............
Out of the 26 residents, 5 staff, 6 Youth Care Workers, 7 volunteers & associated friends that make up the Beth Uriel family, there is an ever changing mix of people heading out on each trip. Over the holidays some of the guys take time out to visit their families, some have been out working for a landscape company & some have been working as labourers for a jacuzzi installation & repair company. One or two have personal projects to work on (such as photography, film editing, acting). Some have been away to church camps. Some just like to stay at home occasionally for a spot of peace & quiet. Occasionally, someone misses out on a trip because they have been sleeping - how they manage not to hear the hubbub that precedes our leaving, we're not quite sure.
The biggest turnout so far was for a special day out at Blue Rock, a water filled quarry where you can try out water skiing & knee board surfing (see photo of Fiona in action), getting towed around a circuit by overhead cable rather than behind a boat. There was also cliff jumping, puttputt (crazy golf/mini golf), volleyball & plain old swimming on offer. The day was rounded off with a visit to the cinema to see the latest James Bond. (Film Reviews: Fiona - a lot of violent tosh! Howard - it was rubbish! I really enjoyed it! )
Out of the 26 residents, 5 staff, 6 Youth Care Workers, 7 volunteers & associated friends that make up the Beth Uriel family, there is an ever changing mix of people heading out on each trip. Over the holidays some of the guys take time out to visit their families, some have been out working for a landscape company & some have been working as labourers for a jacuzzi installation & repair company. One or two have personal projects to work on (such as photography, film editing, acting). Some have been away to church camps. Some just like to stay at home occasionally for a spot of peace & quiet. Occasionally, someone misses out on a trip because they have been sleeping - how they manage not to hear the hubbub that precedes our leaving, we're not quite sure.
The biggest turnout so far was for a special day out at Blue Rock, a water filled quarry where you can try out water skiing & knee board surfing (see photo of Fiona in action), getting towed around a circuit by overhead cable rather than behind a boat. There was also cliff jumping, puttputt (crazy golf/mini golf), volleyball & plain old swimming on offer. The day was rounded off with a visit to the cinema to see the latest James Bond. (Film Reviews: Fiona - a lot of violent tosh! Howard - it was rubbish! I really enjoyed it! )
Monday, December 11, 2006
A day or 2 in the life of a volunteer or 2
We think it would have been simpler to be here in term time, when volunteers typically turn up at Beth Uriel from 3-9 pm to help with homework and study time, ensuring the guys have dinner and showers, too, at the required times. As it is, the whole regular timetable has been thrown up in the air because of the summer/Christmas holidays and it's unclear what we can most usefully help with other than one-to-one contact and driving their beaten up combi and bakkie (minibus and covered pick up truck, in which the boys sit on crates in the back). Two other volunteers, Tim and Patrick, who are gap year students from Germany and have been here for a few months, have been working together on putting on a holiday programme to keep everyone busy and entertained.
The main aim is to find places that are willing to give free or discounted entry to the B.U. crowd. They've done a great job. So far we have had a free lunch at a restaurant by the beach at Camps Bay (on the Atlantic), a free trip to the Aquarium & the Planetarium in Cape Town, not to mention free use of wetsuits & surf boards at Muizenberg (the most fun).
We took a group of boys to their church, Friends First United, on Sunday evening which was quite an experience - a 5 piece rock/pop band performed a very long song (20 minutes at least) about being in love with Jesus, then an enthusiatic & unremittingly cheerful pastor delivered a 50 minute presentation on the story of David & Goliath. He seemed to relish the gore of the story! The approach seems to work since the place was full, mainly of young people. Then there was free cake & coffee for 1st time visitors to the church - we're thinking of doing a tour of all the churches.
We tried to help out at B.U's market stall for their screen-printed Makasi goods on Sunday during the day. They usually go to Greenpoint Stadium where there is a huge market with 100s of stalls - every one of which we visited, in the baking sun, in our search for "our stall" - but they had cancelled going at the last moment without our knowledge!
Our next venture is to help the boys sign up for library cards & e-mail accounts - that's our responsibility entirely - we'll let you know how it goes...............
Apart from that we have been playing table tennis & sharing a few meals. Generally, they rely on free food being donated (from supermarkets, for instance, giving stock that's past it's sell by date) but it has all been good so far, with plenty of bread, fruit & yoghurt on offer.
The main aim is to find places that are willing to give free or discounted entry to the B.U. crowd. They've done a great job. So far we have had a free lunch at a restaurant by the beach at Camps Bay (on the Atlantic), a free trip to the Aquarium & the Planetarium in Cape Town, not to mention free use of wetsuits & surf boards at Muizenberg (the most fun).
We took a group of boys to their church, Friends First United, on Sunday evening which was quite an experience - a 5 piece rock/pop band performed a very long song (20 minutes at least) about being in love with Jesus, then an enthusiatic & unremittingly cheerful pastor delivered a 50 minute presentation on the story of David & Goliath. He seemed to relish the gore of the story! The approach seems to work since the place was full, mainly of young people. Then there was free cake & coffee for 1st time visitors to the church - we're thinking of doing a tour of all the churches.
We tried to help out at B.U's market stall for their screen-printed Makasi goods on Sunday during the day. They usually go to Greenpoint Stadium where there is a huge market with 100s of stalls - every one of which we visited, in the baking sun, in our search for "our stall" - but they had cancelled going at the last moment without our knowledge!
Our next venture is to help the boys sign up for library cards & e-mail accounts - that's our responsibility entirely - we'll let you know how it goes...............
Apart from that we have been playing table tennis & sharing a few meals. Generally, they rely on free food being donated (from supermarkets, for instance, giving stock that's past it's sell by date) but it has all been good so far, with plenty of bread, fruit & yoghurt on offer.
Saturday, December 09, 2006
Orientation
We left the house, in the company of Ruth, at 9 o'clock on our 1st day & walked to Observatory's train station, about 5 minutes away, for a journey of 7 minutes into the centre of Cape Town. There is a choice between 1st & 3rd class carriages. We're told that it's less crowded, with cushions on the seats, in 1st class but that it's safer where there are more people although the trains are supposed to be patrolled by security guards, apart from the last trains of the day. (The trains stop running at 7.30pm on weekdays & 7.00pm at weekends.) The fares are incredibly cheap - 3.50 rands into town for a 3rd class single ticket, double that for 1st class (there are 14 rands to the pound).
We headed to YDP's office on Long Street, past the flea market stalls of Greenmarket Square, for an obligatory viewing of an AIDS video. Having been given various handouts outlining details of the organisation, rules & regulations of both YDP (http://www.ydp.co.za) & Beth Uriel (http://www.bethuriel.co.za), the place where we are volunteering, we headed for a pavement cafe in a pedestrianised area known as St George's Mall. There we talked over points raised in the handouts before we got into a "taxi" to Beth Uriel. The taxi in question was an overcrowded mini-bus - 1 of many which tear along the main roads, hooting frequently while the "guardjie" shouts out of the window drumming up business. Cheap again - 3.50 rands - but cramped & pretty crazy. Got to Beth Uriel to find that everyone was out for the day! So we walked back down through Obs towards our house, stopping at KwikSpar & a wholefood shop for our 1st weekly shop. Ruth then left us to our own devices.
We put away the shopping, then Fiona cooked & Howard slept (the travelling got to him again!). We thought we might swim in a nearby pool, but it was crowded with children - it's the school summer holidays. There was no shade on offer & shade was definitely needed! Knowing that beaches are just a train ride away, we decided that going to the seashore should be plan B. Half an hour later we were walking along the white sands of the Indian Ocean at Muizenberg. Although it's a surfer's beach, it was good for swimming too. The water was invitingly warm & Fiona couldn't resist plunging in, while Howard was happy to sit guard over our belongings - he's not a water baby by inclination. The scenery was stunning. Mountains dominate the landscape, following the curvature of False Bay - Table Mountain is not the only mountain in town!
So now we know our way to the city centre & the beaches, how the public transport system works & where the shops, restaurants & internet cafes are. We've had a taste of the wonderful scenery & our first experiences of African street life. We are really looking forward to our time here over the next 6 weeks.
Thursday, December 07, 2006
Back on the road
On Sunday 3rd December there was a final wedding event at Moira Jane's Bistro in Pollokshields, so that Matthew & Laura could bid their guests farewell, before the happy couple headed off on their honeymoon. It was a great opportunity for us, too, to say goodbye to all the family before we set off on our travels again.
We weren't sorry to leave the howling gales & cold rain of Glasgow behind - & 28 hours later, via Heathrow, Dubai & Johannesburg (a roundabout, but cheap way to go!) we reached Cape Town, South Africa.
We are staying in the home of Ruth & Charles Odigie in the Observatory area of the city. It's an area near the university & the Groote Schuur Hospital (world's 1st heart transplant performed there) where the artsy, hippy, young professionals & students seem to live amongst others - it seems to be quite a melting pot. The houses are pretty, painted in pastel colours. There are good small local shops, restaurants & cafes. It's a nice area, safe to walk, although we do note that most houses have barbed wire along the garden wall tops, the gates are locked & signs are displayed proclaiming that the property is protected by armed response security. Ruth is the Volunteers Manager for YDP (Youth Discovery Programmes) who arranged our project placement here in Cape Town. Charles is a Pastor from Nigeria. They were only married a few months ago! We are also sharing the house with a delightful 7 week old kitten called Felickitty (named in honour of the Odigies last volunteer lodger).
We have a very nice room in their corner bungalow. We will be catering for ourselves while we are there & our room is close to both the kitchen & the bathroom (& the back door, too, for Fiona to nip outside to feed her addiction). We have been told that we have to be careful with our use of water (precious in Cape Town in the summer) & electricity (expensive) but we are not to stint on the hot showers & washing! Hygiene is very important to South Africans & they will find it offensive if we do not shower at least once a day. We were told of some Scandinavians who only showered 2 or 3 times a week.................too horrible!
We weren't sorry to leave the howling gales & cold rain of Glasgow behind - & 28 hours later, via Heathrow, Dubai & Johannesburg (a roundabout, but cheap way to go!) we reached Cape Town, South Africa.
We are staying in the home of Ruth & Charles Odigie in the Observatory area of the city. It's an area near the university & the Groote Schuur Hospital (world's 1st heart transplant performed there) where the artsy, hippy, young professionals & students seem to live amongst others - it seems to be quite a melting pot. The houses are pretty, painted in pastel colours. There are good small local shops, restaurants & cafes. It's a nice area, safe to walk, although we do note that most houses have barbed wire along the garden wall tops, the gates are locked & signs are displayed proclaiming that the property is protected by armed response security. Ruth is the Volunteers Manager for YDP (Youth Discovery Programmes) who arranged our project placement here in Cape Town. Charles is a Pastor from Nigeria. They were only married a few months ago! We are also sharing the house with a delightful 7 week old kitten called Felickitty (named in honour of the Odigies last volunteer lodger).
We have a very nice room in their corner bungalow. We will be catering for ourselves while we are there & our room is close to both the kitchen & the bathroom (& the back door, too, for Fiona to nip outside to feed her addiction). We have been told that we have to be careful with our use of water (precious in Cape Town in the summer) & electricity (expensive) but we are not to stint on the hot showers & washing! Hygiene is very important to South Africans & they will find it offensive if we do not shower at least once a day. We were told of some Scandinavians who only showered 2 or 3 times a week.................too horrible!
Goodbye Miss Jones
On 2nd December 2006 Fiona's 1st born, Matthew William Richard Moodie, was married to Laura Elizabeth Jones surrounded by their friends & family
- & the paparazzi, or so it seemed!
Everything went perfectly. There was a lovely atmosphere & the dancing went on till midnight. A great time was had by all!
- & the paparazzi, or so it seemed!
Everything went perfectly. There was a lovely atmosphere & the dancing went on till midnight. A great time was had by all!
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