Tuesday, October 31, 2006
Monument Valley, Arizona & Utah
Drove to Monument valley through spectacular scenery all the way. we kept thinking that it couldn't get any better, then we would turn a bend & there would be an even more awe inspiring view. The colours of the landscape turned orange & red almost as soon as we reached Utah & we can't describe the approach to Monument Valley. We don't think the photos can possibly do justice to the scenery either. It was fantastic. We stopped frequently as yet another "photo opportunity" presented itself, not to mention leaping from window to window in the RV (at least, Fiona did - Howard thankfully stayed in the driver's seat.) When we finally got to the Visitors' Centre we set off on a 2 1/2 hour jeep trip with a Navajo guide, bumping over dirt roads & sanddunes. An unforgettable day, culminating in watching John Ford's "Stagecoach" from 1938 starring John Wayne - the first movie to be filmed in Monument Valley
Monday, October 30, 2006
Mese Verde, Colorado
Mese Verde - a "green table" covered in Pinyon Pine & Juniper forest - was the home of the Anasazi (ancient Puebloans) from the 6th to the 13th C. They farmed the table tops & initially lived in simple pit houses. However by the end of their time in the area they had progressed to building intricate multi story dwellings on high legdes, under overhangs in the cliff faces of the canyons. It is a truly amazing place. We clambered up & down the steep sides of the canyons by way of paths, steps & ladders to visit some of the ruins. We learned that the ancient Puebloans had a life expectancy of about 30 years. they suffered the agonies of ground-down teeth (grit in their corn) & the consequences of a limited diet (anaemia & osteoporosis) - but, boy, they must have been fit before they died!!
New Mexico
Albuquerque & Santa Fe were pretty, in a chocolate box kind of way, in the old city centres. Adobe houses, charming courtyards & art galleries galore. Strangely quiet & somehow too clean to be true. The dirt & hubbub of Spanish / Mexican street life were missing. Yes, we know we are in the USA but we had hoped for something less sterile.
Across the plains to the desert
The drive across the plains, unexpectedly, turned out not to be tedious at all. It didn't take long - 2 days of driving for 7 or 8 hours & there was always something of interest to look at. It wasn't the bleak expanse we had been led to believe. we got excited at seeing cotton fields & "nodding donkeys" & could only marvel at the number of churches. Texas brought the bizarre wonder of Cadillac Ranch & we passed through Amarillo & didn't even have to ask the way! The dramatic wild desert landscapes began in New Mexico & continued through Colorado, Arizona & Utah. The "Westerns" fan in the party was thrilled to recognise the backdrops for all those old movies.
Well, the weather's been varied!
We left Memphis on a cool, cloudy & windy morning but were soon cruising through sunshine with a cloudless blue sky in Arkansas. The following day started with thick fog steaming from the river we had camped beside, but once the sun burned through it was back to sparkling sunshine for our day's drive into the heart of Oklahoma. Across Oklahoma & Texas into New Mexico was sunny but strong winds constantly swept across the plains. In New Mexico our stay brought us sweltering sunshine in Albuquerque & snow in Santa Fe. Our time in Colorado was more of the same. The temperatures swung from 19 to 70 degrees F and back within 24 hours. We started & finished the day with thermal underwear beneath numerous layers & sunbathed in between.
Monday, October 23, 2006
Memphis, Tennessee - in the swamplands of the south
We parked up at the Memphis Graceland RV Campground, off Elvis Presley Boulevard, down Lonely Heart Lane right by the Heartbreak Hotel!!!
Spent an evening in Beale Street in the Blues Hall Jook Joint listening to the Dr Feelgood Potts Band, just across from B B King's Club - we were a week too early to catch B B himself. Did a tour of Sun studios where Elvis recorded his first record - awesome! - then spent afternoon on Mud Island at the Missisippi River Museum, which was excellent. Walked the course of a scale model of the Missisippi (30" to 1 mile) which detailed the geography & history of the river & the lands that border it. Took 3 hours to walk the model length!! Wow!!
Felt obliged to do the Graceland thang before we left - and it was a surprisingly un-tacky experience. We were glad to have visited.
So now it's onward through Arkansas ..................& Oklahoma, here we come................................
Spent an evening in Beale Street in the Blues Hall Jook Joint listening to the Dr Feelgood Potts Band, just across from B B King's Club - we were a week too early to catch B B himself. Did a tour of Sun studios where Elvis recorded his first record - awesome! - then spent afternoon on Mud Island at the Missisippi River Museum, which was excellent. Walked the course of a scale model of the Missisippi (30" to 1 mile) which detailed the geography & history of the river & the lands that border it. Took 3 hours to walk the model length!! Wow!!
Felt obliged to do the Graceland thang before we left - and it was a surprisingly un-tacky experience. We were glad to have visited.
So now it's onward through Arkansas ..................& Oklahoma, here we come................................
North Carolina to Tennessee (& Georgia)
We left the Blue Ridge Parkway somewhat regretfully, but the gorgeous scenery continued as we skirted the Great Smoky Mountains, throught the Chreokee Indian Reserve, and then on through whitewater country in the Nantahala & Cherokee National Forests - by which time we were in Tennessee. Gradually winding narrow roads gave way to broad straight highways and the landscape began to flatten out as we approached Chattanooga - choo, choo.....
North Carolina gave us our first glimpse of hillbilly country, with smaller more ramshackle buildings & local delicacies such as boiled peanuts & pork skins for sale at shacks by the roadside. Sampled the peanuts, which were hot-they are boiled in their shells for 10 hours in huge pots of salty water! Surprisingly they tasted more like beans than peanuts.
Having stayed by chance overnight in Georgia, we drove west across Tennesee-357 miles. Saw our first cottonfields in the broad valleys in the east. Drove through all kinds of terrain- wide valleys and plains and rolling wooded hills dotted with cattle farms- and all kinds of weather.Drenching rain, thick fog (we were in the clouds!) and bright sunshine. The temperatures ranged from 44F to 66F! Fiona sat wrapped in a duvet for a lot of the drive!
North Carolina gave us our first glimpse of hillbilly country, with smaller more ramshackle buildings & local delicacies such as boiled peanuts & pork skins for sale at shacks by the roadside. Sampled the peanuts, which were hot-they are boiled in their shells for 10 hours in huge pots of salty water! Surprisingly they tasted more like beans than peanuts.
Having stayed by chance overnight in Georgia, we drove west across Tennesee-357 miles. Saw our first cottonfields in the broad valleys in the east. Drove through all kinds of terrain- wide valleys and plains and rolling wooded hills dotted with cattle farms- and all kinds of weather.Drenching rain, thick fog (we were in the clouds!) and bright sunshine. The temperatures ranged from 44F to 66F! Fiona sat wrapped in a duvet for a lot of the drive!
Virginia to North Carolina
Left Washington DC in the pouring rain but in good spirits - the bike is fixed, we have a replacement USB cable for the camera (Fiona left the original in Canada!) & we had discovered that the Internet can be accessed at no cost in public libraries. A morning usefully spent and some lessons learned - we hope!
During the course of the following 3 days we drove along the crest of the Appalachian Mountains, firstly along the Skyline Drive through Shenandoah National Park & then along the Blue Ridge Parkway. It was a stunning, if slow, drive. The "Fall" is just as spectacular here as in New England. Whichever way we looked there were glowing forests and mountains stretching for miles. On the higher reaches the trees had finished shedding their leaves but skeletal Rowan trees were loaded with scarlet berries which lit up the landscape. Misty clouds swirled around us on the first day & on the second day we drove through endless clouds of ladybirds! Some joined us as travelling companions but a more considerable number ended their lives as sticky yellow patches on the front of the RV......... but hundreds of thousands swarmed on......
During the course of the following 3 days we drove along the crest of the Appalachian Mountains, firstly along the Skyline Drive through Shenandoah National Park & then along the Blue Ridge Parkway. It was a stunning, if slow, drive. The "Fall" is just as spectacular here as in New England. Whichever way we looked there were glowing forests and mountains stretching for miles. On the higher reaches the trees had finished shedding their leaves but skeletal Rowan trees were loaded with scarlet berries which lit up the landscape. Misty clouds swirled around us on the first day & on the second day we drove through endless clouds of ladybirds! Some joined us as travelling companions but a more considerable number ended their lives as sticky yellow patches on the front of the RV......... but hundreds of thousands swarmed on......
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
Washington DC
4 nights staying in huge, busy campsite by a motorway. Have been serenaded previously by crickets at night - but now it's traffic. The roads are scary - 7 lanes each way in parts & very busy. Very fraught!!
Have now attended our 2nd reconstructionist shul service. Celebrated Simchat Torah at Adat Shalom in Bethesda - thank you to Scott for the recommendation - you were remembered there. Service from 9.30 - 12.30 followed by lunch. Another bright, airy modern shul with welcoming congregation (of 500 families). Great Rabbi & amazing female Cantor whose singing was heavenly. It was a lovely experience. Spent rest of day at Harper's Ferry, at junction of Potomac & Shenandoah Rivers. Intersting restored 19th C town, now a National Park. We now know a lot about the Civil War too!
Have spent 2 days sightseeing in Washington DC & truly understand meaning of monumental scale. We saw White House, Capitol, Washington Monument & Lincoln Memorial. We visited Smithsonian Castle, Air & Space Museum, Museum of Native American History, Spy Museum (really engrossing - 5 star!) & Arlington Cemetery. We walked up Pennsylvania Ave. & The Mall. We ate in Georgetown & Dupont Circle areas (great diner - the Luna Cafe). We made use of Foggy Bottom Metro Station. We did our laundry & cleaned up the RV a bit! Enjoyed our whole experience - well not the cleaning as such, but the results have been pleasant to live with!!
Goodbye to New England
Now it's hello to New York State, Pennsylvania, Maryland & Virginia. We spent a night in the Catskills - Oy Vey! - before heading to Woodstock, man. Too groovy! We put Bob Dylan on the stereo & prepared our sentimental hippy old souls for San Francisco.
Then it was off to Philadelphia....you can spead the word....... which was wet, wet, wet. So were we by the end of the day but we didn't let a mere deluge deter us. Visited Liberty Hall, tiny Liberty Bell, Ben Franklin's home site & museum, Elfreth's Alley (oldest inhabited street in USA), & the Delaware River front. Now very well informed on the Revolutionary War. Most fascinating thing we saw was the "Armonica" invented by Ben Franklin. It was inspired by the sounds you can produce by rubbing a wet finger around the rim of a glass. A Park Ranger played it for us! Eating in Pliladelphia was great - had soft pretzels as a snack, then found Jim's Steakhouse so Howard could have his longed for Philly steak sandwich with Whizz cheese. Great diner all black & white tiles & chrome & a line up of black servers behind the counter. Passed some very sleazy shops but decided not to sample the delights of Condom Kingdom. We had a little misunderstanding about train times so Fiona dawdled (what's new? says Howard) & spent an hour longer in city than planned but got to see magnificent Gity Hall & immense Masonic Temple.
Lancaster County was next for a day trip to see Amish country. We were somewhat disappointed. It's far less rural & peaceful than we had expected. We bought an interesting book which explores the Plain People's way of life & their struggles to maintain that way of life in the face of the modern world. It's strangely reminiscent of challenges faced by Jewish orthodoxy! The whole day was also made worthwhile by most amazingly spectacular sunsets we have ever seen.
Then it was off to Philadelphia....you can spead the word....... which was wet, wet, wet. So were we by the end of the day but we didn't let a mere deluge deter us. Visited Liberty Hall, tiny Liberty Bell, Ben Franklin's home site & museum, Elfreth's Alley (oldest inhabited street in USA), & the Delaware River front. Now very well informed on the Revolutionary War. Most fascinating thing we saw was the "Armonica" invented by Ben Franklin. It was inspired by the sounds you can produce by rubbing a wet finger around the rim of a glass. A Park Ranger played it for us! Eating in Pliladelphia was great - had soft pretzels as a snack, then found Jim's Steakhouse so Howard could have his longed for Philly steak sandwich with Whizz cheese. Great diner all black & white tiles & chrome & a line up of black servers behind the counter. Passed some very sleazy shops but decided not to sample the delights of Condom Kingdom. We had a little misunderstanding about train times so Fiona dawdled (what's new? says Howard) & spent an hour longer in city than planned but got to see magnificent Gity Hall & immense Masonic Temple.
Lancaster County was next for a day trip to see Amish country. We were somewhat disappointed. It's far less rural & peaceful than we had expected. We bought an interesting book which explores the Plain People's way of life & their struggles to maintain that way of life in the face of the modern world. It's strangely reminiscent of challenges faced by Jewish orthodoxy! The whole day was also made worthwhile by most amazingly spectacular sunsets we have ever seen.
Wednesday, October 11, 2006
Vermont
Vermont followed on from New Hampshire. Another beautiful drive through autumnal forests along river & lake sides. Stayed at Burlington, home of University of Vermont. Charming city with cafe culture- and a stall selling crepes. Mmmmm...... Walked along shore of Lake Champlain (150 miles long x 12 miles) for a couple of hours in the morning. Amazing views to Adirondack Mountains & a picturesque light house too. Stunning butterflies drifted by.
White Mountains
Left Canadato head for White Mountains of New Hampshire via Maine. Crossed border at Calais (pronounced callous by locals). Drove through Bangor, Hampden & Mexico, bypassing Peru! We even entered Canaan. Rolling countryside, glowing yellow & orange foliage, with occasional flashes of red. Listened to evangelical radio en route.Heard a right wing ranter give us his solution to the evil of random school shootings - arm the teachers!!! Very enlightening...
Reached the White Mountains at dusk -having had a near misson the way (someone drew out from a layby unexpectedly & most of our belongings headed for the front seats during the emergency stop). Shared a site & campfire with a group from Montreal celebrating their Thanksgiving Day which coincides with Columbus Day - BIG HOLIDAY! Canadians arrived in an assortment of ancient VW Campers. Bitingly cold night - cloudless sky. Our plans to take trip up Mount Washington (6700 ft) were shared by thousands. Radio & TV had broadcast that it was a perfect day to go up. Only 6 days in year are cloud free. Sometimes visibility is only 5 ft. There are snow falls every month & winter snow lies till August. Highest ever recorded windspeed was registered there. We duly appreciated our good fortunein having picked one of few perfect days.Views were amazing- to Maine & Atlantic & to Canada. Heady stuff!
Reached the White Mountains at dusk -having had a near misson the way (someone drew out from a layby unexpectedly & most of our belongings headed for the front seats during the emergency stop). Shared a site & campfire with a group from Montreal celebrating their Thanksgiving Day which coincides with Columbus Day - BIG HOLIDAY! Canadians arrived in an assortment of ancient VW Campers. Bitingly cold night - cloudless sky. Our plans to take trip up Mount Washington (6700 ft) were shared by thousands. Radio & TV had broadcast that it was a perfect day to go up. Only 6 days in year are cloud free. Sometimes visibility is only 5 ft. There are snow falls every month & winter snow lies till August. Highest ever recorded windspeed was registered there. We duly appreciated our good fortunein having picked one of few perfect days.Views were amazing- to Maine & Atlantic & to Canada. Heady stuff!
St Andrews,New Brunswick
The town is on a peninsula facing Maine Coast on 1 side, Bay of Fundy on other. Spectacular sea views! As befits its name it has a golf course. Even Fiona might consider playing with scenery like that to look at! The streets of the town are broad & leafy. As with most places that we've been so far most of the houses are painted clapboard either dazzling white or soft grey, with brick buildings in centre of town. Town's Main Street by the waterside is lined with craft shops & cafes. All in all, a perfect place to meander in the sunshine, walking the dog or cycling, chatting about this & that - which is just what we did. The dog (called Ceilidh) & the chat kindly provided by our hosts.
Saturday, October 07, 2006
PS - Fiona has taken the wheel!
At last she plucked up the courage and had a turn behind the wheel - not as scary as she thought it would be but obviously pretty scary for the terrible passenger and back street driver otherwise known as Howard.....
Maine to New Brunswick
So, we weren't, as predicted, up at sunrise! We did get up earliesh to a clear day - after a night of thundering rain and RV shaking winds. Phoned about the sea kayak tours on offer. We had hoped for an afternoon trip, but there were spaces only for 10am so we grabbed breakfast on the move (a banana), unhooked post haste and drove the half hour to town - to find that the sea was too rough and the trip was cancelled. Disappointing - but we were consoled by buttermilk pancakes and maple syrup. Decided a bike ride round Eagle Lake would be a suitable alternative. We do have bikes strapped to the back of our RV as part of our deal but had to hire 2 more for the day since Howard got too close to a tree during a 3 point turn in the dark the night before and our bikes have somewhat alternatively shaped wheels now! So, on our fresh bikes, we cycled 12 miles on carriage roads designed by John D Rockefeller Jnr (he liked carriage driving hitched behind a horse & wasn't taken with the combustion engine, despite daddy having founded Standard Oil!) - more blue skies, fantastic foliage and shimmering water. Then we climbed back into the RV for a drive up Mount Cadillac - the highest point on the US Atlantic coast with views for miles around. Finally set off for New Brunswick about 4pm and arrived after a 3 hour drive (but due to time change on border between USA & Canada it was 8pm) We are staying with Max & Willi Wolfe who have been fabulous hosts. They live in a charming house in St Andrew's and we succumbed to their insistence that we stay in the house! Pictures to follow......... Weather still all blue skies and sunshine although definite chill in the air up here.
Thursday, October 05, 2006
From New Hampshire to Maine
After 2 days of driving, we are now in Bar Harbor, Maine in the Acadia National Park. Drove through beautiful countryside and towns. Stopped at Canterbury Shaker village in New Hampshire, before heading to Route 1 to drive up the Maine coastline. Took a cliff-top walk this afternoon and hope to either sea-kayak or cycle tomorrow and climb Mount Cadillac - the first point in the USA where you can see the sunrise every morning - we may not be there at sunrise, knowing us.
Next stop, New Brunswick...
Next stop, New Brunswick...
Yom Kippur in the U S of A
We spent Yom Kippur with Congregation Ahavas Achim - the Rabbi is Micah Becker Klein. He has a pony tail and played guitar - should tell you a lot about the style of services! It was a reconstructionist shul, with machzor of over 1200 pages. Shul built in shape of tent with stained glass window in apex. Lined with timber inside and windows all round at waist height - very light and airy. Has about 100 members and has been orthodox, conservative, reform and reconstructionist, in that order, over last 30 years. Service started with a cello rendition of Kol Nidre! Services on Kol Nidre & Yom Kippur lovely but too much English and not enough singing (in our opinion!)
On YK services started at 9.30 am but finished at 2 pm for an afternoon break not starting again until 5 pm. We took the opportunity to go walking since it was a beautiful day - walked for an hour round the perimeter of Goose Lake through the dazzling forest. The sky was blue, the water shimmered.......
Then back to shul for the concluding services and the after-the-fast pot-luck supper. Since many of the members have to travel for up to an hour and a half to get to shul, the supper was a substantial affair - which was nice on two counts - we were fed without having to cook for ourselves and it gave us the opportunity to chat to some interesting people with stories to tell. Everyone was warm and welcoming and seemed geuinely pleased that we had visited their shul.
On YK services started at 9.30 am but finished at 2 pm for an afternoon break not starting again until 5 pm. We took the opportunity to go walking since it was a beautiful day - walked for an hour round the perimeter of Goose Lake through the dazzling forest. The sky was blue, the water shimmered.......
Then back to shul for the concluding services and the after-the-fast pot-luck supper. Since many of the members have to travel for up to an hour and a half to get to shul, the supper was a substantial affair - which was nice on two counts - we were fed without having to cook for ourselves and it gave us the opportunity to chat to some interesting people with stories to tell. Everyone was warm and welcoming and seemed geuinely pleased that we had visited their shul.
Swansey Lake & Keene
The RV got us to Swanzey Lake, New Hampshire on Saturday 30th September. Gorgeous day, gorgeous drive, gorgeous place to stay. Went kayaking on Swanzey lake, cycled round the perimeter then setlled by the camp fire and cooked supper. Awoke the next day to teeming, torrential rain which poured all day - put paid to thoughts of walking through the forests but made for a gulitless Sunday morning lying about reading..... Did eventually venture out about 1.30pm when we decided to reccy our shul for Yom Kippur - took a bit of finding so were glad we had been shown foresight for once. Had a wander down Keene Main Street (shops mostly closed), drove to see a historic covered bridge (one of 7 in the area), ate dinner by it then headed to shul for 6.30pm.
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